A Quick Tip that will prove EXTREMELY important in extending the life of your washing machine.

If your washing machine is not level, it can vibrate strongly during the spin cycle. This can also happen if you have a large rug, towel or blanket that is bundling up on one side of the machine. It can also happen if you overload the machine.

But if your washing machine is not perfectly level--with all four legs touching the floor--it can bang and rock back and forth, and even begin to "walk" across the room. Keeping the machine level can really prevent a TON of damage.

This type of walking isn't good for the machine and may damage anything near the machine. Use the adjustable front and/or back leveling legs on the washer to adjust the machine to the proper height, then tighten the lock nut up against the body of the machine to keep the leg from rotating.

Most washing machines have "self-adjusting" rear legs. You set these legs by tilting the entire machine forward onto its front legs (with the rear legs 3 to 4 inches off the floor) and then setting the machine back down. The legs should adjust automatically.

If they don't, you may need to tilt the machine forward and rap on the rear legs with the handle of a hammer to loosen them--a procedure that's easier to accomplish with a helper.

Place a carpenter's level across the front of the clothes washer and check to see if the machine is level side to side. If it isn't, use adjustable pliers to rotate one front leveling foot or the other until the washer is level.

Labels: Washing Machine Parts

Traditional clothes washers work by completing three major cycles:

1. the fill,
2. wash or agitate, and
3. drain cycles.

First, load the washer with the clothes they are to be cleaned. Always make sure that the clothes are not packed in too tight because you want the wash water to be able to circulate amongst the clothes to get them as clean as possible. In most washing machines, you can choose small, medium or large load.The controls are different for each washer manufacturer and sometimes they depend on the year of the washer, also.

The controls let you adjust wash settings, such as the water temperatures, spin speeds, timer cycles, etc. When operating properly the washing machine completes the cycle selected on the timer.Your washer may have more than one selector switch.

One of the switches allows you to select your desired settings for clothes load size and another will allow you to choose whether you want to use cold, warm, or hot water (for the wash cycle and the rinse cycle). The start switch is usually integrated with the timer assembly. When you set the timer to the desired cycle, you either pull out or push in the timer knob to begin the cycle.

Next, a solenoid operated water mixing valve opens and lets the washer fill up with cold water, hot water, or a mix of both, according to what you have selected using the selector switch.

The water-inlet valve consists of three main parts which include: the cold water solenoid, the hot water solenoid, and the valve mixing body.

Two hoses are clamped to the valve intakes from the house, one hot, one cold. A third hose connects at the valve mixing body to the washer tub. Its purpose is to fill the washer. The water then mixes with the detergent and clothes. The selector switch and timer interact with a pressure switch which measures the depth of water in the tub. When the desired level of water is reached, the switch sends a signal to the solenoid that closes the water-inlet valve.Next, the agitator begins to work.

The agitator is the plastic upside down cone with arms or fins on it, located in the center of the tub. It is driven by a clutch and transmission system attached to the motor. This system then rotates the agitator arms back and forth. This motion pulls the clothes down and through the wash water and washing machine detergent mixture repeatedly, loosening the dirt from the clothes.

The pump re-circulates the wash water from the bottom to the top during the wash cycle. When the timer tells it to, the washer then pumps the water out of the tub, while the tub is also spinning between 400 to 800 rpm. This spinning provides a force that pushes the water to the outside of the tub where the pump can pull all the wash water out of the tub.

For top load washers, the agitator is in the center of the tub; there is no agitator for front load washers, but the concept is the same. The washer tub tumbles, moving the clothes through the wash water and moving the wash water over and through the clothes.The selector switch and timer work together to complete the cycle you have chosen.

The timer switch is usually mechanical, and is motor driven with cams to open and close switches. Newer models may use an electronic control circuit board. The timer tells the washing machine what to do next by sending the instructions and power to the washer's parts at the right time.After the agitation or tumbling is completed, the timer advances, and the dirty water is pumped out of the washer. More water is brought in to rinse the clothes while the washer agitates or tumbles some more to make sure the clothes are rinsed well.

The machine spins the clothes again to get as much water out of them as it can while pumping out the rinse water.There are three basic ways that washers pump water:

1. direct drive,
2. belt drive, and
3. a separate pump and motor assembly.

There are certain safety features that are integrated into washing machines. What happens if you lift the lid on your washer? It stops spinning or agitating immediately because the lid switch activates the brake.

This is to prevent injury to your arms and hands. There is a brake system built into washers by law because many people have been injured in the past by putting their hands and arms into a spinning wash tub.

The brake system operates in much the same way as car and motorcycle brakes. With the lid open, your washer may still fill, but it will not spin or agitate. There are times the lid switch can fail, and your washer won't work until you replace it. Electric motors can reach full speed in under a second, however, under a load of clothes and water, attempting to reach full-speed too quickly can cause problems.

The clutch and transmission assembly comes in handy here, allowing the tub to gradually increase its spin speed, without damaging any internal parts. The clutch basically lets the belt slip a bit and gradually tightens it until full speed is reached.

The electric motor powers the agitator during wash cycles and spins the inner tub during the damp dry or spin cycle; the motor also drives the pump on many models. After washing or rinsing, the pump removes the water from the tub through the drain hose, and lifts it out to the drain.Many washers have a reversible motor, it can turn clockwise and counterclockwise.

In one direction the motor uses the transmission or clutch system to spin the inner tub; while in the other direction, it uses the same transmission or clutch system to work the agitator.

For washers that don't have a reversible motor, a solenoid automatically shifts the transmission from agitate settings to spin settings.Some washers use plastic and rubber coupler assemblies that connect the motor directly to the transmission.

It makes the connection without the need for a belt. This part breaks fairly often.

Labels: Washing Machine Parts

Learning about how a simple light bulb change can save you money and at the same time work towards preserving our earth for future generations.

Switching from the traditional light bulbs in your home (which are referred to as incandescent) to CFLs (Compact Flourescent Lights) is an effective, simple change that everyone in America can do right now.

Compact Fluorescent Light Bulb Coupons

According to EnergyStar.gov - "Making this change will help to use less electricity at home and prevent greenhouse gas emissions that lead to global climate change."

Lighting accounts for close to 20 percent of the average home’selectric bill. ENERGY STAR qualified CFLs use up to 75 percent less energy (electricity) than incandescent lightbulbs, last up to 10 times longer, cost little up front, and provide a quick return on investment.

If every home in America replaced just one incandescent light bulb with an ENERGY STAR qualified CFL, in oneyear it would save enough energy to light more than 3 million homes. That would prevent the release of greenhouse gas emissions equal to that of about 800,000 cars.

Many People worry that CFLs contain mercury.

CFLs contain a very small amount of mercury sealed within the glass tubing – an average of 4 milligrams – about the amount that would cover the tip of a ballpoint pen. By comparison, older thermometers contain about 500 milligrams of mercury – an amount equal to the mercury in 125 CFLs.

Mercury is an essential part of CFLs; it allows the bulb to be an efficient light source. No mercury is released when the bulbs are intact (not broken) or inuse. Most makers of light bulbs have reduced mercury in their fluorescent lighting products. Thanks to technology advances and a commitment from members of the National Electrical Manufacturers Association, the average mercury content in CFLs has dropped at least 20 percent in the past year.

Some manufacturers have even made further reductions, dropping mercury content to 1.4 – 2.5 milligrams per light bulb.

The time is now to make the switch. The staff and editors at ApplianceLife urge you to do so!

Labels: Energy Star Appliances

Servicing Worn Impellers:

To remove a garbage disposal to sharpen impellers:

1. Unplug the garbage disposal, remembering to trip the circuit breaker first or remove the fuse at the main electrical box if the disposal is wired directly into the house. (Circuit breakers act to limit the current in a single circuit in most household applications. Typically a single circuit is limited to 20 amperes, although breakers come in many sizes.)
   
2. Remove all hose fittings leading into or away from the disposal. Some garbage disposals can then be removed by twisting to free them from the support ring. Others require that the unit be unscrewed from the ring.
   
3. Remember that a garbage disposer is a relatively heavy small appliance, so freeing it will suddenly put its full weight in your hands.
   
4. To service worn impellers on many models, you must remove the flywheel. Lock the flywheel in place with a screwdriver, then loosen the flywheel lock nut.
   
5. Once the flywheel is removed, the impellers can be removed or sharpened in place. If the impellers cannot be sharpened, the flywheel assembly will need to be replaced

Garbage disposal maintainence requires some knowledge of plumbing as well as electrical work. If you are not sure of your abilities, a plumber can help.

Labels: Garbage Disposer Parts

1. First check is underneath the sump entrance screen. This is located on the bottom of the dishwasher (on the inside). There are usually a couple of screws that you have to remove to peek in. Check in there for any crud or gook. There may be small pieces of glass so wear work gloves. Get all of the crap out of there.
   


2. Many dishwashers have a self clean filter inside the basin, at the back of the dishwasher. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up and you may need a new one if it is twisted or distorted. The draining water must get past this. The filter can be easily removed from the inside to check to see if it is okay and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body so that you can check for distortion.



3. The back flush valve is sometimes the culprit of draining problems. This can be viewed on the back of your dishwasher. All hoses between the the drain hose to the house plumbing should be checked for any type of restrictions.



4. Newer dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor. Older model dishwashers used a drain solenoid valve. If this solenoid fails, the dishwasher won’t drain and you will have to replace it. If the solenoid cannot pull in the plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out.
   
5. Use a ohm meter to test the continuity of the solenoid coil. You should also test to see if it’s receiving voltage when the dishwasher is supposed to be draining.

Labels: Dishwasher Parts

We can't say enough about doing your homework before purchasing replacement parts for your appliances. It can safe alot of your time, money and most of all - it will say you from getting a headache!

Here are some things that are important for you to understand when buying parts for your air conditioner, washing machine or other household appliance.

• It is basically an "appliance parts industry standard" to NOT accept returns for electrical appliance parts! Electrical parts may be calibrated and can easily be damaged by mishandling or improper installation, without showing any signs to the naked eye - therefore in most cases - your part will not be returnable
  
• Many times - appliance part stores charge a restocking fee of 15% to 50%. This is to help defray the cost of time involved in helping you and stocking the parts
  
• Always check your warranty. If a part or appliance is under warranty - chances are you will not have to pay the restocking fee, of course
  
• On-line merchants usually make you apply for a return authorization before they will accept returned goods. This is in part because many online retailers ship from warehouses directly and may not have parts in thier store. (Some online retailers may not even have a store)
  
• Special order parts are usually NOT RETURNABLE unless a mistake is made by the parts supplier or the manufacturer.
  
• Before ordering anything, be sure to read the store policies!

If something fails - get some expert help or read up online at Appliance Life before purchasing your parts!

Labels: Universal Appliance Parts

This is a special reminder from Appliance Life during the biggest remodeling season of the year. If you are getting new appliances - please take note to discard your old appliances safely. The lives of children are at stake.

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The U. S. Consumer Product Safety Commission CPSC) has received reports of numerous suffocation deaths involving children who crawled inside latch freezers, clothes dryers, combination washer/dryer units, picnic coolers, ice boxes in campers, and oldstyle latch type refrigerators.

Most of the victims were four to seven years old. In all cases, the doors could not be easily pushed open from the inside. In some the incidents associated with clothes dryers, the appliance was accidentally turned on while the child inside. Frequently, the children were playing “hide-and-seek” and the appliance or chest provided a deceptively good place to hide.

When the door slammed shut, tight fitting gasket on most of the appliances cut off air to the child. This, along with the insulated construction of the appliance, also prevented the child’s screams from being heard.

But abandoned appliances are the only items involved with accidents like these. Entrapment deaths have been reported in products use or stored in the kitchen, laundry room, basement, or garage.

Deaths also have occurred in ice boxes located in campers parked outside the home.

Take care to remove the door from refrigerators, dryers, washing machines and other appliances when discarding them.

Keep the door to your laundry room locked shut if you have small children OR you will have small children visiting your home.

Parents - please remind all children of all ages to never crawl inside an appliance.

Labels: Appliance Safety