Appliance Parts and Repair: August 2008

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Appliance Parts and Repair from Appliance Life

DIY Appliance Repair and Help in finding the right part. Keep it Simple.

Saturday, August 30, 2008  

Washing Machine Functionality 101- CLICK HERE!

Traditional clothes washers work by completing three major cycles:
  1. the fill,
  2. wash or agitate, and
  3. drain cycles.

First, load the washer with the clothes they are to be cleaned. Always make sure that the clothes are not packed in too tight because you want the wash water to be able to circulate amongst the clothes to get them as clean as possible. In most washing machines, you can choose small, medium or large load.The controls are different for each washer manufacturer and sometimes they depend on the year of the washer, also.

The controls let you adjust wash settings, such as the water temperatures, spin speeds, timer cycles, etc. When operating properly the washing machine completes the cycle selected on the timer.Your washer may have more than one selector switch.

One of the switches allows you to select your desired settings for clothes load size and another will allow you to choose whether you want to use cold, warm, or hot water (for the wash cycle and the rinse cycle). The start switch is usually integrated with the timer assembly. When you set the timer to the desired cycle, you either pull out or push in the timer knob to begin the cycle.

Next, a solenoid operated water mixing valve opens and lets the washer fill up with cold water, hot water, or a mix of both, according to what you have selected using the selector switch.

The water-inlet valve consists of three main parts which include: the cold water solenoid, the hot water solenoid, and the valve mixing body.

Two hoses are clamped to the valve intakes from the house, one hot, one cold. A third hose connects at the valve mixing body to the washer tub. Its purpose is to fill the washer. The water then mixes with the detergent and clothes. The selector switch and timer interact with a pressure switch which measures the depth of water in the tub. When the desired level of water is reached, the switch sends a signal to the solenoid that closes the water-inlet valve.Next, the agitator begins to work.

The agitator is the plastic upside down cone with arms or fins on it, located in the center of the tub. It is driven by a clutch and transmission system attached to the motor. This system then rotates the agitator arms back and forth. This motion pulls the clothes down and through the wash water and washing machine detergent mixture repeatedly, loosening the dirt from the clothes.

The pump re-circulates the wash water from the bottom to the top during the wash cycle. When the timer tells it to, the washer then pumps the water out of the tub, while the tub is also spinning between 400 to 800 rpm. This spinning provides a force that pushes the water to the outside of the tub where the pump can pull all the wash water out of the tub.

For top load washers, the agitator is in the center of the tub; there is no agitator for front load washers, but the concept is the same. The washer tub tumbles, moving the clothes through the wash water and moving the wash water over and through the clothes.The selector switch and timer work together to complete the cycle you have chosen.

The timer switch is usually mechanical, and is motor driven with cams to open and close switches. Newer models may use an electronic control circuit board. The timer tells the washing machine what to do next by sending the instructions and power to the washer's parts at the right time.After the agitation or tumbling is completed, the timer advances, and the dirty water is pumped out of the washer. More water is brought in to rinse the clothes while the washer agitates or tumbles some more to make sure the clothes are rinsed well.

The machine spins the clothes again to get as much water out of them as it can while pumping out the rinse water.There are three basic ways that washers pump water:

  1. direct drive,
  2. belt drive, and
  3. a separate pump and motor assembly.

There are certain safety features that are integrated into washing machines. What happens if you lift the lid on your washer? It stops spinning or agitating immediately because the lid switch activates the brake.

This is to prevent injury to your arms and hands. There is a brake system built into washers by law because many people have been injured in the past by putting their hands and arms into a spinning wash tub.

The brake system operates in much the same way as car and motorcycle brakes. With the lid open, your washer may still fill, but it will not spin or agitate. There are times the lid switch can fail, and your washer won't work until you replace it. Electric motors can reach full speed in under a second, however, under a load of clothes and water, attempting to reach full-speed too quickly can cause problems.

The clutch and transmission assembly comes in handy here, allowing the tub to gradually increase its spin speed, without damaging any internal parts. The clutch basically lets the belt slip a bit and gradually tightens it until full speed is reached.

The electric motor powers the agitator during wash cycles and spins the inner tub during the damp dry or spin cycle; the motor also drives the pump on many models. After washing or rinsing, the pump removes the water from the tub through the drain hose, and lifts it out to the drain.Many washers have a reversible motor, it can turn clockwise and counterclockwise.

In one direction the motor uses the transmission or clutch system to spin the inner tub; while in the other direction, it uses the same transmission or clutch system to work the agitator.

For washers that don't have a reversible motor, a solenoid automatically shifts the transmission from agitate settings to spin settings.Some washers use plastic and rubber coupler assemblies that connect the motor directly to the transmission.

It makes the connection without the need for a belt. This part breaks fairly often.


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Thursday, August 21, 2008  

Energy Saving Light Bulbs - Why should people use CFLs?- CLICK HERE!

Learning about how a simple light bulb change can save you money and at the same time work towards preserving our earth for future generations.

Switching from the traditional light bulbs in your home (which are referred to as incandescent) to CFLs (Compact Flourescent Lights) is an effective, simple change that everyone in America can do right now.

Compact Fluorescent Light Bulb Coupons

According to - "Making this change will help to use less electricity at home and prevent greenhouse gas emissions that lead to global climate change."

Lighting accounts for close to 20 percent of the average home’selectric bill. ENERGY STAR qualified CFLs use up to 75 percent less energy (electricity) than incandescent lightbulbs, last up to 10 times longer, cost little up front, and provide a quick return on investment.

If every home in America replaced just one incandescent light bulb with an ENERGY STAR qualified CFL, in oneyear it would save enough energy to light more than 3 million homes. That would prevent the release of greenhouse gas emissions equal to that of about 800,000 cars.

Many People worry that CFLs contain mercury.

CFLs contain a very small amount of mercury sealed within the glass tubing – an average of 4 milligrams – about the amount that would cover the tip of a ballpoint pen. By comparison, older thermometers contain about 500 milligrams of mercury – an amount equal to the mercury in 125 CFLs.

Mercury is an essential part of CFLs; it allows the bulb to be an efficient light source. No mercury is released when the bulbs are intact (not broken) or inuse. Most makers of light bulbs have reduced mercury in their fluorescent lighting products. Thanks to technology advances and a commitment from members of the National Electrical Manufacturers Association, the average mercury content in CFLs has dropped at least 20 percent in the past year.

Some manufacturers have even made further reductions, dropping mercury content to 1.4 – 2.5 milligrams per light bulb.

The time is now to make the switch. The staff and editors at ApplianceLife urge you to do so!


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Sunday, August 17, 2008  

Sharpening the Impellers in your Garbage Disposal- CLICK HERE!

Servicing Worn Impellers:

To remove a garbage disposal to sharpen impellers:

  1. Unplug the garbage disposal, remembering to trip the circuit breaker first or remove the fuse at the main electrical box if the disposal is wired directly into the house. (Circuit breakers act to limit the current in a single circuit in most household applications. Typically a single circuit is limited to 20 amperes, although breakers come in many sizes.)
  2. Remove all hose fittings leading into or away from the disposal. Some garbage disposals can then be removed by twisting to free them from the support ring. Others require that the unit be unscrewed from the ring.
  3. Remember that a garbage disposer is a relatively heavy small appliance, so freeing it will suddenly put its full weight in your hands.
  4. To service worn impellers on many models, you must remove the flywheel. Lock the flywheel in place with a screwdriver, then loosen the flywheel lock nut.
  5. Once the flywheel is removed, the impellers can be removed or sharpened in place. If the impellers cannot be sharpened, the flywheel assembly will need to be replaced

Garbage disposal maintainence requires some knowledge of plumbing as well as electrical work. If you are not sure of your abilities, a plumber can help.


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